Last updated: January 2026
Itaewon in 1989 was a different world.
American soldiers everywhere. Tailors shouting “Custom suit! Good price!” Bars with names like “Nashville” and “Texas.” Korean families avoided the area entirely.
It was Seoul’s little America. A bubble where foreigners could find Western food, speak English, and feel less lost.
I spent my first lonely months in Itaewon. It was the only place I could read menus. The only place where being foreign felt normal.
35 years later, Itaewon has transformed multiple times. The US army presence faded. Global restaurants moved in. Then came the clubs. Then the tragedy of 2022.
No neighborhood tells Seoul’s story better than Itaewon. Here’s what I’ve witnessed.
Itaewon is different.
It’s the most international neighborhood in Korea.
Where East meets West.
Where you can find any cuisine on Earth.
But it’s also changed.
Here’s what you need to know in 2026.
Not sure if Itaewon is for you? Compare neighborhoods in our Best Neighborhoods in Seoul guide.
What is Itaewon?
Itaewon (이태원) sits next to the US Army base.
For decades, it was THE foreigner neighborhood.
Restaurants, bars, clubs catering to expats.
Today, it’s evolved:
- International food paradise
- Diverse nightlife
- LGBTQ+ friendly district
- Trendy Hannam-dong nearby
Itaewon’s Transformation
| Era | Vibe | My Experience |
|---|---|---|
| 1980s-1990s | US military town | Only place I could find Western food |
| 2000s | International food hub | Amazing restaurants appeared |
| 2010s | Trendy nightlife | Clubs, rooftop bars, K-pop stars |
| 2019-2021 | Peak popularity | Overcrowded weekends |
| 2022-now | Recovery | Quieter, reflective, rebuilding |
The military Itaewon:
When I arrived, Itaewon existed for US soldiers from Yongsan base.
Tailor shops making custom suits. Shops selling American-sized clothes. Bars playing American music. Fast food before Korea had fast food.
For me, it was a lifeline. Homesick? Go to Itaewon. Craving a burger? Itaewon. Need someone who speaks English? Itaewon.
The global food Itaewon:
Around 2005, everything changed.
The US military presence shrank. Korean entrepreneurs saw opportunity. Suddenly there was real Mexican food, Indian food, Middle Eastern food.
I remember eating my first proper curry in Seoul at an Itaewon restaurant. Pakistani owner, authentic recipe. I nearly cried.
Now Itaewon has food from 50+ countries. The best international dining in Korea, concentrated in a few blocks.
The party Itaewon:
By 2015, Itaewon became THE nightlife district.
Clubs, rooftop bars, late-night restaurants. Young Koreans who once avoided the area now flocked there. K-pop celebrities spotted at clubs.
It was exciting. Maybe too exciting.
How to Get There
Subway:
- Itaewon Station (Line 6)
- Exit 1: Main street (north side)
- Exit 4: Bar area (south side)
Nearby Stations:
- Noksapyeong (Line 6) – for Haebangchon
- Hangangjin (Line 6) – for Hannam-dong
Important Context: 2022
The 2022 Halloween tragedy deeply affected Itaewon.
The community has recovered.
Businesses have reopened.
People are returning.
But some areas feel different.
And that’s okay.
Itaewon remains vibrant and welcoming.
Just more aware, more careful.
The Tragedy and After
I need to address this directly.
On October 29, 2022, 159 people died in a crowd crush in Itaewon during Halloween celebrations.
I’ve walked that alley hundreds of times. The narrow slope near Hamilton Hotel. I know exactly where it happened.
That night:
I wasn’t there. My wife called me, frantic. “Stay away from Itaewon.”
The news was horrifying. Young people. Celebrating. Then crushed in an alley I knew by heart.
Visiting after:
I went back a month later. Flowers everywhere. Candles. Photos of victims.
The restaurants were empty. The energy was gone. Nobody knew how to feel.
Now:
Itaewon is recovering, slowly. The crowds are smaller. The vibe is different — more subdued, more respectful.
Some say it’ll never be the same. Maybe that’s true. Maybe that’s okay.
If you visit:
The memorial area near the alley is worth a quiet moment. Not as a tourist attraction. As a reminder.
Life is fragile. Community matters. That’s what Itaewon taught me in 2022.
Itaewon Areas
Main Itaewon Street
The central commercial area.
- International restaurants
- Clothing shops
- Tailors
- Foreign grocery stores
Most touristy but convenient.
Hooker Hill → Hamilton Hotel Area
Historic bar street.
Now mixed bars and restaurants.
Active nightlife district.
Gyeongnidan-gil (경리단길)
The trendy side of Itaewon.
Up the hill from main street.
- Hipster cafes
- Fusion restaurants
- Local vibes
- Less crowded
Haebangchon (HBC)
Behind Itaewon, up the hill.
Expat neighborhood.
- Rooftop bars
- International restaurants
- Residential feel
- Great views
Hannam-dong (한남동)
Wealthy, upscale area.
Connected to Itaewon.
- High-end boutiques
- Celebrity restaurants
- Blue Square (performances)
- Samsung Museum of Art
Bogwang-dong
Between Itaewon and Hannam.
Quieter, residential.
Some hidden restaurants.
International Food
This is Itaewon’s superpower.
Middle Eastern
| Restaurant | Specialty |
|---|---|
| Petra | Jordanian |
| Eid | Lebanese |
| Casablanca Sandwicherie | Moroccan |
South Asian
| Restaurant | Specialty |
|---|---|
| Everest | Nepalese/Indian |
| Delhi Darbar | Indian |
| Namaste Kathmandu | Nepalese |
Mexican/Latin
| Restaurant | Specialty |
|---|---|
| Vatos | Korean-Mexican fusion |
| Gusto Taco | Tacos |
| Coreanos | Tex-Mex |
American
| Restaurant | Specialty |
|---|---|
| Smokey’s BBQ | Texas BBQ |
| Craft Bros | Burgers |
| Suji’s | Diner breakfast |
Other Cuisines
| Cuisine | Where |
|---|---|
| Turkish | Kervan |
| Thai | Soi, Thai Orchid |
| Vietnamese | Bánh Cuốn |
| Greek | Santorini |
| German | Bratwurst places |
You get the idea.
Every cuisine exists here.
Even at international restaurants, no tipping needed. Learn why in our Tipping in Korea Guide.
Why I still go to Itaewon for food:
Seoul has great Korean food everywhere. But international food? Itaewon is still the best.
My regular spots (20+ years going):
| Restaurant | Cuisine | What I Order | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vatos | Korean-Mexican | Kimchi carnitas fries | Here since 2011 |
| Passion 5 | Bakery/cafe | Any pastry | Best croissants in Seoul |
| Casablanca | Moroccan | Tagine | Hidden gem, few tourists |
| Namaste | Indian/Nepali | Butter chicken | 15+ years going |
| Suji’s | American brunch | Pancakes | Weekend tradition |
The restaurant that changed everything:
When Vatos opened in 2011 with Korean-Mexican fusion, it was revolutionary.
Kimchi in a burrito? Gochujang in salsa? People thought it was crazy.
Now Korean fusion is everywhere. But Vatos started something.
Halal food:
Itaewon has the best halal options in Seoul. The Muslim community centered around Seoul Central Mosque created demand, and great restaurants followed.
For Muslim travelers: this is your neighborhood.
Nightlife
Bars
| Bar | Vibe |
|---|---|
| Magpie Brewing | Craft beer |
| Southside Parlor | Whiskey, chill |
| Fountain | Rooftop |
| Pistil | Wine bar |
Clubs
Club scene has changed post-2022.
More cautious, smaller venues.
Still active on weekends.
Just different atmosphere than before.
Homo Hill
Korea’s LGBTQ+ nightlife district.
- Gay bars and clubs
- Welcoming atmosphere
- Most active weekends
One of the few openly LGBTQ+ spaces in Korea.
Itaewon nightlife — then and now:
| Era | Scene |
|---|---|
| 1990s | GI bars, seedy but safe |
| 2000s | International mix, early clubs |
| 2010s | Peak clubbing, rooftop bars |
| Now | Quieter, more mature |
My clubbing years:
I’m too old for clubs now. But in my 30s and 40s, Itaewon was the spot.
B1 (before it closed). Cake Shop for indie music. Various rooftop bars with Seoul views.
The crowd was always mixed — Koreans, foreigners, everyone together. That diversity made Itaewon special.
What I do now:
| Activity | Spot | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Craft beer | Craftworks | Quality beer, relaxed vibe |
| Wine | Any of the wine bars | Good selection |
| Live music | Various small venues | Real performances |
| Late dinner | Open-late restaurants | Food after 10 PM |
For younger visitors:
The club scene still exists, just smaller. Cakeshop (reopened). Fountain. A few others.
But the 2019 peak is gone. Hongdae has taken some of that energy. That’s okay — Itaewon has enough.
Shopping
What to Buy
| Item | Where |
|---|---|
| Tailored suits | Main street tailors |
| Leather goods | Leather shops |
| Antiques | Antique alley |
| Foreign groceries | Foreign food marts |
| Vintage clothing | Side street shops |
Tailors
Itaewon is famous for custom tailoring.
Suits, shirts, dresses made to measure.
Price range: 300,000-1,000,000원
Time needed: 3-7 days
Get measured first day, pick up later.
Foreign Groceries
Missing home food?
- Foreign Food Mart
- High Street Market
- Various specialty stores
Find cheese, bread, spices, etc.
Cafes & Brunch
Best Cafes
| Cafe | Known For |
|---|---|
| Anthracite | Industrial, great coffee |
| Passion 5 | Luxury bakery |
| Baker’s Table | Fresh bread |
| Feel Good | Desserts |
Brunch Spots
Itaewon has the best brunch in Seoul.
| Restaurant | Specialty |
|---|---|
| Suji’s | American diner |
| Sarr | Mediterranean |
| The Wolfhound | Irish brunch |
| Casablanca | Middle Eastern brunch |
Weekend brunch = expect lines.
Come early or late.
Halal Food
Itaewon is Korea’s halal food center.
Where to Find Halal
- Itaewon Mosque area (top of hill)
- Many Middle Eastern restaurants
- Indian/Pakistani restaurants
- Look for halal signs
Seoul Central Mosque
Korea’s main mosque.
Beautiful building on the hill.
Open to respectful visitors.
Halal grocery stores nearby.
Hannam-dong Side
What’s Different
Hannam-dong is upscale Itaewon.
- Higher prices
- Trendier crowd
- Celebrity sightings
- Less “international” feel
Worth Visiting
| Place | What It Is |
|---|---|
| Leeum Museum | Samsung art museum |
| Blue Square | Concert hall |
| D Museum | Design exhibitions |
| Hannam-dong Cafe Street | Upscale cafes |
Itaewon’s Mini-Neighborhoods
Itaewon isn’t one place. It’s several distinct areas.
Main Itaewon (이태원역 area)
The central strip. Restaurants, bars, shops.
Most tourists stay here. Busiest on weekends.
Gyeongnidan-gil (경리단길)
Up the hill from main Itaewon.
This is where the best restaurants hide. Less chaotic. More local.
I eat here more than main Itaewon now. The food quality is higher, prices slightly lower.
My favorite: There’s a tiny pasta place on a side street. Italian owner. 8 tables. Reservations required. Best carbonara in Seoul.
Haebangchon (해방촌)
Further up the hill. Used to be very local.
Now filled with cafes and small restaurants. The “undiscovered” area that got discovered.
Still worth exploring. Great views of Namsan Tower.
Usadan-gil (우사단길)
Multicultural area near Seoul Central Mosque.
Middle Eastern restaurants. African shops. Pakistani grocers.
When I need spices or ingredients from home, I come here.
Hannam-dong (한남동)
Expensive, upscale area adjacent to Itaewon.
Galleries. High-end restaurants. Celebrity apartments.
Not really my scene, but worth knowing about.
Practical Tips
Getting Around
Itaewon is hilly.
Wear comfortable shoes.
Main street is flat.
Side areas = steep hills.
Payment
Cards accepted almost everywhere.
Some small shops prefer cash.
Language
Most staff speak some English.
More English than other Seoul areas.
Menus often in English.
Safety
Itaewon is safe.
But like any nightlife area:
- Watch your belongings
- Stay with friends at night
- Know your limits with alcohol
What 35 years taught me:
Getting There
Itaewon Station (Line 6) drops you in the center.
But I prefer walking from Noksapyeong Station (also Line 6). You enter through Gyeongnidan-gil, which is less chaotic.
Best Times
| Time | Experience |
|---|---|
| Weekday lunch | Quiet, local workers |
| Weekday evening | Pleasant, not crowded |
| Friday night | Busy but manageable |
| Saturday night | Peak crowds |
| Sunday brunch | Expat tradition |
Sunday brunch culture:
Itaewon invented Seoul’s brunch scene.
Sunday mornings, the restaurants fill with foreigners, mixed couples, Korean families trying Western food.
I’ve done Sunday brunch in Itaewon for 25 years. It’s a ritual.
Safety
Itaewon is safe. Despite its “wild” reputation, I’ve never had problems.
After 2022, crowd management improved significantly. Police presence is higher. Emergency protocols are better.
Normal street smarts apply. Don’t flash cash. Watch your belongings. Standard city stuff.
Language
This is the ONE area in Seoul where English works everywhere.
Menus are in English. Staff speak English. Signs are in English.
If you’re nervous about Korean, start your trip in Itaewon. Build confidence. Then explore.
Day Trip Itinerary
Afternoon in Itaewon
2 PM – Arrive
- Itaewon Station Exit 1
- Walk main street
3 PM – Coffee
- Anthracite (Hannam) or
- Cafe in Gyeongnidan-gil
4 PM – Explore
- Walk up to Gyeongnidan-gil
- Browse shops
5 PM – Early Dinner
- Pick a cuisine you’ve been craving
- Book ahead on weekends
7 PM – Hannam-dong
- Walk toward Hannam
- Window shop
- Evening vibes
Night Out Itinerary
Evening in Itaewon
7 PM – Dinner
- International restaurant
- Take your time
9 PM – First Drinks
- Craft beer or wine bar
- Rooftop if weather’s nice
11 PM – Bar Hopping
- Walk the streets
- Try different spots
1 AM – Late Night Food
- Korean food after drinking
- Or kebab on the street
2 AM – Finish
- Taxi home
- Or continue if you’re young
What’s Different About Itaewon
Why Foreigners Love It
- English spoken
- International food
- Western vibes
- Less overwhelming than Korean-only areas
- Diverse crowd
Why Some Skip It
- “Not Korean enough”
- Tourist area feel
- Can be expensive
- Less authentic experience
My Take
Itaewon is part of modern Korea.
It shows Korea’s global side.
The diversity, the openness.
The ability to absorb other cultures.
Is it traditional Korea? No.
Is it real Korea? Absolutely.
Common Questions
Is Itaewon safe?
Yes. Normal big-city awareness applies.
Is it expensive?
More than average Seoul.
International food costs more.
But budget options exist.
Is it worth visiting?
If you want:
- International food: Yes
- Western nightlife: Yes
- Traditional Korea: No
How long to spend?
- Quick visit: 2-3 hours
- Food exploration: Half day
- Night out: Full evening
Is Itaewon safe?
Yes. I’ve been going for 35 years without incident.
After October 2022, the area has even more safety measures. Police presence is high. Crowd control is better.
Use normal big-city awareness. Don’t get too drunk. Watch your belongings. You’ll be fine.
Is Itaewon only for foreigners?
Not anymore.
In the 1990s, yes — Korean families avoided it. Now young Koreans love it.
The “foreigner town” reputation faded. It’s just another Seoul neighborhood — one with great international food.
What’s Itaewon known for?
International food. That’s the main reason to visit.
Korean food is everywhere in Seoul. But proper Indian, Mexican, Middle Eastern, African food? Itaewon is your best bet.
Also: the diversity. Walking down Itaewon’s main street, you’ll hear 10 languages. That’s rare in Korea.
Should I visit Itaewon?
Yes, especially if you:
- Miss food from home
- Want international cuisine
- Like diverse, mixed neighborhoods
- Want to feel “at home” as a foreigner
Maybe skip if you:
- Only want “authentic Korean” experiences
- Don’t like crowded areas (visit weekday lunch instead)
- Are uncomfortable with nightlife districts
Getting Out of Itaewon
Nearby Places
| Place | How to Get There |
|---|---|
| Yongsan Station | Line 1 or walk |
| National Museum | Line 4 Ichon |
| Han River Parks | Walk south |
| Myeongdong | Line 6 to 3 transfer |
Easy to Combine With
- War Memorial of Korea (nearby)
- National Museum of Korea
- Han River cycling/picnic
- N Seoul Tower (taxi up)
Final Thoughts
Itaewon saved me in 1989.
When I couldn’t read Korean, when every meal was a challenge, when loneliness hit hard — Itaewon was there. English menus. Familiar food. People who understood being foreign.
I watched it transform from GI town to global food hub to party district.
I watched it break in October 2022. Walked the streets afterward, felt the grief.
I’m watching it rebuild now. Quieter. More thoughtful. Still diverse.
Itaewon isn’t just a neighborhood. It’s where Seoul meets the world. Where foreigners became part of the city. Where Korean cuisine absorbed global influences.
Some locals still dismiss it as “not real Korea.”
I disagree. Itaewon IS Korea — modern, global, complicated Korea.
35 years of memories in those streets. I’ll keep making more.
— Ted K
Itaewon has great cafes too. Explore Korea’s coffee obsession in our Korean Cafe Culture Guide.
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